Harry Kooros
Thailand is easily one of my favourite countries to visit, offering something for travellers of all ages and backgrounds. From the world-class beaches to the mountainous landscapes of the north, the country boasts impressive cycling routes almost everywhere you look. While travelling around the world with my partner, we spent some time in Thailand, where I finally got the chance to cycle some of the routes I had read about over the years.
Bangkok’s Happy Healthy Bike Lane
The Happy Healthy Bike Lane (HHBL) is a 23.5km two-lane cycling track that tracks around the perimeter of Don Mueang International Airport, Bangkok’s second airport. Built on old access roads bordering an irrigation canal, the HHBL provides cyclists with an escape from the chaotic, traffic-filled roads.
After making my way from central Bangkok, I was immediately impressed by the scale of the infrastructure. The main hub features bike shops, a convenience store, and numerous food vendors, including Western staples like KFC and Boost Juice.
On arrival, first-time visitors receive a SNAP wristband, which is needed to access the track. The wristband can be loaded with money for cashless purchases of food, drink, and even bike rentals.
Hiring
The HHBL has a bike store where you can hire anything from an aluminium hybrid bike to the latest Pinarello Dogma. I opted for a mid-range carbon road bike—a Merida Reacto 6000 with 12-speed Shimano electronic shifting. A four-hour rental (including helmet and pedals) costs around AUD$45, which I found very reasonable for the quality and service.
The Track
Making the mistake of starting my ride in the middle of the day, I knew it would be tough given Bangkok’s humidity and heat. After scanning my SNAP wristband and rolling onto the track, I was impressed by the quality of the road surface, which was consistent throughout. The track has markings every 250 metres, which would be useful when measuring distance efforts. It has multiple rest stops along the way, which feature toilets, seats, and vending machines. For aviation enthusiasts like me, the rest stops doubled as amazing vantage points for seeing flights taking off and landing.
Storage
For locals and frequent travellers, the HHBL offers secure long-term storage and a cleaning and servicing program for bikes stored on site.
Chiang Mai
After our time in Bangkok, we flew north to Chiang Mai, nestled in the mountains of Northern Thailand. It’s truly a cycling mecca, with stunning mountain climbs starting almost right outside your doorstep.
Doi Suthep
On arrival in Chiang Mai, I was itching to ride the infamous Doi Suthep – a 10km climb with an average gradient of 6%. Located just a few kilometres out of the city centre, it doesn’t take long before you hit the base of the climb.
The super smooth roads make for utter enjoyment, both on the way up and down. While a tough climb, there aren’t many super sharp hairpins, meaning you can stay consistent most of the way through. As you climb up above the city, there are a few points to stop and take in the incredible view, if the haze isn’t too bad.
Descending the mountain had to be one of my favourite descents ever. The smooth roads and gentle corners made for a fast, fun run, and there were safety barriers almost the whole way down, giving you more protection from the drop-offs.
Doi Inthanon
Located a little further away from Chiang Mai, the Doi Inthanon is a monstrous 38-47 km climb (depending on where you consider the official start to be), averaging 8.5% gradient. It is widely regarded as one of, if not the hardest climb in Asia, and is much longer than Alpe d’Huez in France.
While there is an entrance fee of 300 Thai Baht (approx. AUD$14) to enter the climb, it’s more than worth it, as long as you’re ready to suffer.
Leaving the town of Chom Thong, you’ll slowly clock up the kilometres until you have climbed nearly 2,600 metres. For those who like gradual, consistent climbs like Doi Suthep, you’ll certainly find this challenging. While the first section of the climb is gradual with some rolling hills, by the last third of the climb, you’ll regularly be hitting 15%+ gradients.
Winding through the national parkland, you’ll see dense jungle, waterfalls, farmland, and small villages, all of which make for a truly breathtaking experience (if you have any breath left)! The sweeping view of the surrounding mountains at the top certainly makes for a spectacular payoff.
Conclusion
Eager to return with more time, I’ve already pencilled in another trip to Thailand for 2026, hoping to explore even more of what the country offers by bike. With Thailand practically on our doorstep (just an eight-hour direct flight from Sydney), I’d strongly recommend it to any cyclist looking to venture into international riding.
