Amy McPherson
Italy’s north-east is less visited by cycling tourists, but it has plenty to offer, as contributor Amy McPherson found out when tracing some of this year’s Giro route.
Could I have under-estimated the Italians when they said “it’s mostly downhill” on a trip that would take me from the edge of the Dolomites to Lake Garda? Maybe. And on gravel too, and anyone who knows me well knows that I do not ride well on gravel.
Could I have saved myself some embarrassment by choosing the road option on this route instead of gravel? Maybe.
Do I regret it? Absolutely not.
Such are the emotions you tend to go through when cycling in Italy, especially in regions where it isn’t typically featured on the mainstream cyclists’ itineraries.
This year, both men’s and women’s Giro will feature the lesser visited north-eastern part of Italy, and it’s time to shine a spotlight on the regions of Trentino, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, and the top part of Emilia Romagna.
From challenging gravel climbs to roads that wind through some of the world’s best bubbly wineries to flat, traffic-free, family-friendly bike routes, there’s so much more to cycling in Italy than the famous Dolomite passes such as the Stelvio or the white roads of Tuscany flanked by cypress trees. Not to mention, with so many cross border regional influences, there’s some amazing culinary experiences for the post-ride fuel. But, before I get into the pasta, I got a gravel climb to battle.
DoGa – Dolomiti-Garda bike trail
Thoughts back on the gravel then, as I grind and walk the climb leading up to Madonna di Campiglio, a ski resort in winter, sporting paradise in summer, on the Charlemagne Pass.
Surrounded by lush pine forests, the air is fresh and energising, but I was losing the group fast. Aware of the healthy, growing population of brown bears, I’m fuelled by adrenaline and the motivation of food. I knew we’d be able to stop for a meal at the top, so I pushed on despite the screaming pain in my quads.
For lovers of gravel but without the time for a longer journey, the 110km Dolomiti-Garda Bike Trail in the region of Trentino is perfect for a taste of everything it has to offer. Starting from a village called Malè in Val di Sole, almost follow the flow of Sarca River, down to the town of Riva del Garda on Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda. The most beautiful thing about this route is that it winds its way through the Adamello-Brenta Nature Park, with great vistas of the surrounding mountains. It can be attempted in one stage, but I recommend throwing in a night in between to have time to stop and smell the roses…or potato fritters.
In the mountain areas around this corner of Italy, they really know how to make potato fritters. The aroma of this crispy deliciousness hit me as soon as we arrived at Rifugio Malga Ritorto, a mountain hut refuge that is now a cosy homestyle restaurant. A hearty spread of cold cuts, cheeses and fried potatoes welcomed us, and a simple regional style pasta and polenta followed. I began to feel my legs again. The wine helped too. Normally I have a no drinking rule during a ride but, when in Italy….
Emerging back into the wild, the view from this standpoint was mesmerising. In direct line of the Brenta Dolomites, the sun would paint its granite peaks a silvery sheen during the day, and a brilliant mauve pink as it sets. Alas, we have no time to stay for sunset as we continued our ride towards the night’s accommodation. It is now ‘mostly downhill’ as we forgo the Daone Pass and choose the Dolce Vita flat route, yet some punchy climbs would still surprise us along the way. Thankfully by now, the trail has sections of road and sealed bike paths, and is mostly downhill, all the way to Lake Garda, via the tranquil landscapes of Lake Tenno and the gorgeous historical village of Canale.
You could continue cycling to Trento, the region’s capital city and meet the women’s Giro Stage 3 arrival, but I’ll leave that to you, as I enjoyed the sun at the official end of DoGa.
Prosecco and Slovenian border
Over the many times I have been cycling in Italy, I have often told people that I do not drink mid-ride, and I’ve repeatedly failed at my rule.
I have to emphasise that it is difficult when winery visits are often part of my cycling itinerary, especially when riding through the wine region where some of the world’s best prosecco isn’t sold outside the region!
“Be aware,” said Vania, half warning, half joking to the group. “Don’t pick the grapes to try here, this land is worth two million Euros per hectare, I would not guarantee your safety if a farmer sees you stealing their grapes!”
We are taking a small walk among the vineyards of Valdobbiadene, the UNESCO Heritage prosecco growing patch of land known as the golden triangle of prosecco production. Not all prosecco is made equal. In the region of Veneto, there are vineyards of the Glera grape which prosecco is made from in several places; it is within the Conegliano and Valdobbiadene hills where the prosecco reign supreme. And there is some fantastic cycling, with the punchy 116km ‘Conegliano and Valdobbiadene Prosecco Hills Loop’ being most popular, with roads flanked by rows of vines, glorious views across the landscape and winery stops offering delectable lunches and glasses of prosecco.
And yes, proper prosecco isn’t just a party drink, it pairs amazingly with the regional cuisines like local sausages, fish, potatoes and seasonal salads. Don’t forget to try the tiramisu, which originated from nearby Treviso.
While in Conegliano, cross over to the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia and follow the Pedemontana Cycle Route. Here, you could attempt one of the previous Giro d’Italia climbs of Piancavallo, 13.8km at an average of 8 per cent. I skirted around it and took the flatter lands towards the rivers instead, as my eventual destination was the city of Gorizia and its twin city across the Slovenian border – Nova Gorica.
This year, Gorizia and Nova Gorica has jointly been given the title of European City of Culture, making it the first time a cross-border partnership will hold the title. Nicknamed the ‘Borderless City of Culture’, the two cities share a common ancestry cultural background, only divided by politics through war. Here, what is Italian and Slovenian is blurred, and is reflected in the architecture and cuisines.
From here, I recommend a day ride into Slovenia. This is a small mountainous country that is green and full of adrenaline. You could choose to challenge your quads on the steep, windy climbs into the Julian Alps, where the Soca River flows a deep emerald green. The landscape is a dream and no less epic than the Dolomites, with colourful villages full of history along the way. Alternatively, go east to check out the pretty capital Ljubljana and cycle the popular 50km route between Pogačar’s home village, Komenda and Roglič’s hometown, Trbovlje.
Sun Route and Food Valley trail
Back on the Italian side of the border, things get mellower as you have more riverside cycling.
Never trust Italians when they claim it’s a flat route. It is rarely truly flat. That is, until I cycled the Ciclovia del Sole, the Sun Route.
The route is part of the longer EuroVelo 7 that crosses nine countries, with several challenging sections. In Italy, between Verona and Bologna, it is almost completely flat. This means that this is the perfect route for those who aren’t keen on the climbs or for families with kids in tow.
From ‘fair Verona’, as Shakespeare described it, we followed Biffis Canal which ran alongside the Adige River westwards towards Lake Garda. Most of this route is on traffic-free paths or quiet roads and well signposted by directional signage or simply by a big icon of the sun painted on the paths. Cycling to the sound of gushing water makes you feel like you are truly on holidays, and rather pleasantly, with only a couple of short sharp ascents, we rolled into the pretty lakeside town of Peschiera del Garda.
The trip was broken up into three days, mostly because we knew the lunch stops will always take longer than necessary, and predictably, almost always involved wine. One of the lovely things about this cycle route is that it passes several of the new ‘cycle huts’ selling snacks and coffee along the way, as well as farms that serve up a hearty lunch, mostly for their workers but cyclists are definitely welcome! It was in such a farm where I discovered a love for sweet bread dusted in sugar for dessert. Thankfully I definitely burn off the calories before and after.
From Peschiera del Garda, the route continues on a flat path along River Mincio all the way. We stop for an espresso at Borghetto sul Mincio, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages that seems to float on the river itself, before continuing to Manuta for the night. We are now approaching the next region, Emilia Romagna, and I simply couldn’t wait. This is the region that hosted the Tour de France Grand Depart in 2024, and it has not forgotten the limelight. It is also the region where most of what we know as “Italian food” originated. Prosciutto from Parma, Parmigiano-Reggiano (known to us English speakers as Parmesan cheese), balsamic vinegar of Modena, Tortellini and even spaghetti Bolognese, even though technically, the locals will say this does not exist!
Our third day began as usual, easy cycling under the warm sun in the direction of Bologna. From the river path to canal path, where water birds waded in the shallow waters, stalking fish, it was a pleasant ride. In conditions, where you have no traffic to contend with and where the road surfaces are so well maintained, it can be tempting to just speed through, but you’d miss out on the scenery and gems of the region.
Such as making a detour from the route to Modena for lunch at the generational family producer, Acetaia Casa Tirelli.
Modena is renowned for its balsamic vinegar, considered the crème de la crème of vinegars, where ancient traditions are still followed to produce the syrup-like, dark vinegar prized for its aroma and taste. Like wine, vinegar can vary in taste with age, how it’s treated and the quality of grapes the year it’s harvested. The best ones are at least 12 years old and nothing like the supermarket ones.
A bit west from Modena, is the city Parma. Home to the Food Valley Bike trail, a 70km long cycling route adjacent to the Po River between Parma to Busseto, with highlight stop points for cheese, pasta and several different hams. Again, flat and suitable for most cycling abilities. My chance to eat, I mean, cycle my way in the Food Valley came with the chance to join L’Étape Parma by Tour de France this year, where a leisure day was a guided ride along the bike trail, where we stopped and ate.
I am aware this is a cycling article. But no cycling in Italy is without being tempted by an array of regional cuisine, especially when each region has its own produce and flavours that are often not found in our so-called ‘Italian restaurants’. So eat up and ride!
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