The best of the west: 5 Malaysian cycling destinations to explore

Malaysia is a popular tourism destination for Australians, although many cyclists probably overlook it as a road-riding destination.

However for me, and as someone who has ridden most of the cycling-friendly roads there over the decades, I’d say those who skip it are really missing out!

While there is also East Malaysia, with its Borneo states, in this article we’re focusing on the western half of the country, often referred to as mainland or Peninsular Malaysia.

Although the cities and highways are very busy and generally not recommended for cycling, the five destinations detailed here all offer excellent riding and make taking your bike along a wise move on any trip to the country.

1) Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands are found in the north-central heart of West Malaysia and are a complete contrast to the hot and bustling lowlands that characterise much of the country.

Sitting between 1,100 and 2,000 metres above sea level, the Highlands comprise a number of small towns and villages surrounded by near-pristine jungle and rolling tea plantations. The area was once a colonial hill station and now produces a wide array of fresh produce, as well as its legendary tea.

From a cycling point of view, the Highlands earned their spurs as a mountain-top finish in the Tour de Langkawi. The old road climb from Tapah to Tanah Rata is a twisting 40km jungle snake of a ride, while the newer approach highway from Ipoh through the Highlands towards Gua Musang is arguably tougher.

It is far more open, with views across the central mountains, and is one for anyone looking for a serious and exposed climbing challenge.

There aren’t a whole lot of roads around the Highlands, but what there are – along with the gravel options branching off them – are well worth a couple of days of chilled-out exploration amid spectacular scenery.

2) Beyond Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia’s capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), is generally the gateway to the country for visitors. It’s a sprawling and vibrant city with an array of cultural contrasts, and offers a diverse taste of Southeast Asia.

KL may not immediately jump out as a cycling destination, and it isn’t somewhere most people would visit for a pure cycling trip. However, it does have a thriving cycling scene and is somewhere most visitors, including cyclists, will spend time. Head a little beyond the city and there are some great rides and varied terrain.

While there are numerous morning and evening group rides around the greater city area, you’re best off heading east and northeast to find the best riding.

A local favourite is the area around Hulu Langat, as well as the roads from Kajang into the hilly countryside to the east. With quiet roads and tropical rural scenery, this area offers some of the best day rides from the city.

To the northeast is the old road from KL towards the east coast, which runs more or less parallel to the newer highway and therefore carries far less traffic.

The long, winding climb up to Genting Sempah is a training staple for local road riders, and if you’re up for a longer out-and-back challenge, you can continue on to Bukit Tinggi and beyond.

Just to the north is Genting Highlands, and the climb to it is arguably one of the toughest in Asia. Sadly, cyclists are no longer permitted on the upper section of the climb because of the volume of motorised traffic. However, the western access climb from Rawang to the checkpoint still makes for a sweltering and tough out-and-back ride.

3) Fraser’s Hill and the lower highlands

Further northeast of KL is the former colonial hill station of Fraser’s Hill, which is a much smaller and quieter place than Cameron Highlands. You could be forgiven for thinking you’d ridden into 1950s rural England, thanks to its distinctly old-English architecture and sleepy demeanour.

While there are a couple of short and hilly rides around the town, it’s what lies to the south that is the real treat for cyclists. The jungle road from Kuala Kubu Bharu, over Fraser’s Gap and on to Raub is spectacular and, in my opinion, the best ride in Malaysia.

This stretch of road is relatively quiet, extremely varied in terms of scenery and makes for a long, gentle climb. Some riders link it with Bentong for an epic day ride from KL. I’d also recommend taking on the steep and narrow climb from Fraser’s Gap up to the town – a tough but rewarding ride.

The road also continues east and north into the interior towards Kuala Lipis and Gua Musang. The main road can get pretty busy, but there are some remote kampung (village) roads through this area and on towards Cameron Highlands, making for a tough bikepacking trip through areas few tourists ever get to see.

4) The northeast coast cruise

For the longest time, the east coast of Malaysia was touted as the ultimate place-to-place bike tour in the country, although things have changed considerably in terms of infrastructure and traffic over the years.

I’d strongly recommend avoiding the main north-south highway and instead focusing on the winding roads through the small, rolling kampung and coastal areas, of which there are many.

The east coast state of Terengganu has a thriving cycling scene and has produced the lion’s share of Malaysia’s top road and track racers over the decades.

In and around Kuala Terengganu are numerous quiet backroads that can be linked into great day rides. To the north and south, the coastal and inland roads are mostly flat, but head west and things become much wilder and hillier – and especially pretty if you ride towards Kenyir Lake.

5) Penang and Langkawi

The northwest islands of Penang and Langkawi are among the most visited and contrasting areas of Malaysia, and if you do pass through, it really is worth taking your bike along.

Penang is world-renowned for its street food, historic architecture and cultural diversity. The island isn’t particularly big, and the entire eastern side is busy and built-up, making it far from ideal for riding. However, head north from Georgetown and things soon quieten down. After Batu Ferringhi, the traffic eases considerably.

The long and winding climb from here over the mountains to the west coast is a real treat and a complete contrast to the opposite side of the island.

While most cyclists take the logical full-island loop, it gets very busy after Balik Pulau. Instead, take the very small road east from here and you’ll be faced with an extremely tough, narrow, twisting and rough road climb right over the mountains.

The reward is a spectacular panoramic descent back towards Georgetown, making for a great day ride.

Langkawi lies some way north of Penang, and while many may dismiss it as a cycling destination because of its relatively small size and limited road network, it is actually a pretty good place to ride.

It’s also far more laid-back and quieter than Penang, making it perhaps the nation’s primary beach-lover’s hotspot.

Riding here may not be abundant, and you’d need to weave around and get creative to put together rides of more than 120km. The round-island ‘half loop’, which cuts back through the interior to avoid Kuah, is a great and relatively easy ride with stunning vistas.

Beyond this, there are numerous small interior kampung roads, a tough out-and-back climb towards Datai Bay, and the steep, quiet and winding 12km climb to the 880m-high summit of Gunung Raya. The mountain towers over the island and is a place very few visitors ever reach.

If you fancy linking the two islands into a bikepacking trip, you can weave along mostly kampung roads from Butterworth north through the mainland to access them.

Essentials

Getting around Malaysia is relatively easy and inexpensive. There is a decent domestic flight network, while long-distance buses between these destinations are also quite good, and many carry bikes. Car rental is another sound option, although city traffic can be frustrating.

Malaysia has a hot and humid tropical climate and can experience heavy rain in different parts of the country at any time. The best and driest time to visit the west of the country is between December and April, while the east coast is best from March to October. The highlands are driest from January to February and June to September.

Malaysia as a whole is quite cycling-aware and has a busy cycling scene, so you’ll have no problem finding high-end gear and spares in KL and Penang, with basic supplies available elsewhere. It’s always best, however, to take any unusual or specific spares with you. Have fun out there.