Tina McCarthy
Self-confessed Japanophile Tina McCarthy shares her love of riding the Shimanami Kaido route and the great things to see along the way.
So where in Japan are you from?’
‘I come from Hiroshima.’
‘Aaah … a very historical city.’
‘Yes, and I was there at a very historic time.’
The silence that followed punctuated the power of the moment.
And so my love affair with Japan began. Who was this mysterious woman of few words? Jet black hair, precise and delicate moves and a kindness I had never experienced in a stranger before. She came bearing gifts which to this day I still treasure.
That was over 50 years ago when my father had a business colleague from Japan come to stay with us. As a child I was left with a yearning to visit Japan and find out more about the mystery that Motoko embodied. It took another 15 or so years before I finally had my chance to visit Japan on a university design study tour. From that day forward, I was completely and totally besotted … it was my happy place, full of intrigue, mystery, juxtapositions and downright quirkiness!
Though I visited many places in Japan in the years that followed, it wasn’t until I found the love of cycling back in 2012 that my experiences in Japan changed. Suddenly, a whole new view of Japan opened. Away from the big cities and flashing neon, I had the chance to immerse in what I have since called ‘the real Japan’. Everyday life of villages populated with elderly, small stores selling local produce on a ‘trust’ basis and the thrill of seeing pelotons of laughing children making their way to school unburdened by parental assistance.
Of the 25 million international tourists who visited Japan in 2023, approximately two-thirds only visited what is known as the ‘golden tourist route’: Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. But it seems that inbound cycle tourism is a growing economic opportunity for smaller prefectures and, thus, the opportunity to benefit from their share of the inbound tourism pie.
Some prefectures working hard to build their inbound cycle tourism include Tottori, Fukui, Fukuoka, Shimane, Ehime and Hiroshima Prefectures. Home to the first government-designated National Cycle Routes, the Shimanami Kaido gains a huge amount of press. And rightly so … it is a cyclist’s dream course of quiet roads with overtly courteous drivers, undulating hills that lead you through bamboo forests and citrus groves, views of azure seas and bridges that are engineering marvels.
I’m not sure how many times I have ridden the spectacular Shimanami Kaido now, but it is certainly more than I can remember. I will never tire of it! However, over the last 10 years, since I have been guiding cycling tours there, I have come to learn there is far more to the area than just taking the single Shimanami course. There are hundreds of islands to explore off the main route, and each island has alternatives that offer far less trafficked courses that the more serious cyclists will fall in love with. But as I always say, there is no point in rushing … it is a place to be in the moment, seeing, feeling, immersing.
Mukaishima
The first of the islands to cross on the Shimanami Kaido is Mukaishima. A quick 10-minute ferry ride from Onomichi on the mainland will carry you to the start of the main Shimanami course. Most cycle tourists will just ‘follow the blue line’ as the brochures direct you to. That’s a great way to get started and you’ll be sure to never get lost. It’s a shame that most people just bypass gorgeous Mukaishima, including its epic (but short) climb to Takamiyama. There are several ways to do the climb, but either way, you’ll be rewarded with views across the islands that stretch for miles, an architect-designed toilet block midway and an excellent spot for lunch.
Some years back, we, by chance, met with Kiryu san, who had spent time living and working in France. Since that day, one of our greatest treats has been to pay Kiryu san a visit at his gorgeously quaint restaurant, Les Dix Sept Bateaux on Mukaishima. It’s the perfect place to refuel before tackling the 10-15 per cent Takamiyama. His savoury or sweet crepes are truly the best, but the restaurant’s atmosphere is like stepping into a French noir movie. Classic French café music sets the mood; an old bicycle with baguettes in the basket out the front and chequered tablecloths on the cane furniture feel like sitting in the 9th Arrondissement. But you must book to get a seat … there are only seven or eight of them!
It’s not all crepes and French food on the Shimanami. Seafood is, of course, the specialty of the area, and there are so many fabulous small cafes serving ridiculously cheap, sumptuous seafood dishes. But you really can’t go past a steaming hot bowl of local ramen after a day of cycling. The area is famous for its noodle-style soup, and on any day, you will see queues lining up for a taste of the famous ‘Onomichi ramen’. It is so famous, in fact, that people travel from out of town just for a bowl of the hearty broth. Dinner sorted; you’ll need snacks from Hassaku Workshop Matsuura … the mere mention of their hassaku daifuku sends me into a dizzying whirl of longing! Our local cycle guide friend Akira got me addicted to these sweet treats of doughy mochi casing stuffed with fresh local citrus. The perfect sugar hit on a ride, and the explosion of the sweet, tangy juice inside is sublime.
Iwashijima
Accessed by ‘the little red bridge’ from Mukaishima, Iwashi is home to quiet farmlets of hundreds of spring onions, or negi as the locals call them. Iwashi, for me, is a hidden gem of the area – only 8km around but filled with quiet paths and pristine beaches. I remember my first visit to Iwashi and discovering the extraordinary tori gate on the beach … silently standing in the water. It has so much presence. Accessed by a small path off the mostly untrafficked main road, the red tori stands grandly in the water and is guarded by two stone ‘komainu’, or lion dogs. It truly feels like entering the domain of the gods.
Nestled into the bushes adjacent is a small shrine covered in illustrations of samurai fighting positions. A large suzu, or rope bell, hangs to wake the gods. On every visit to the area, this has become my ‘must-go’ location … peaceful, other-worldly, and quietly spectacular.
The Innoshima roller coaster
If hills are your thing, then the road less travelled on Innoshima is a must. Though none of the hills are large, they keep coming at you! The usual ‘blue line’ course for the Shimanami takes you around the island’s west side, often referred to as ‘Island Explorer’. However, the east side of the island involves tackling the ‘advanced route’ of the Suigun Skyline … and skyline it is! Roughly 15km of up-and-down roller coaster hills hugging the cliff side afford the most spectacular views. Islands floating in the distance, ships slowly rolling by, and small villages nestled into the inlets between each hill climb.
It is a tough course for the unsuspecting tourist, and we’ve seen a few slugging it away in the pain cave as they realise they took the wrong turn. Averaging around 12 to 14 per cent on most of the short climbs. There are no facilities to speak of other than the occasional drop toilet, and it’s best to take your own snack food and plenty of water. There is a multitude of peaceful and seemingly deserted locations to choose for a lunch stop, from small shrines in local villages to serene beaches with sea walls that make a great place to sit and doze, or there are a few small picnic areas on the cliff tops.
Sagishima
After an almost full circumnavigation of Innoshima, you can divert completely off the Shimanami for a secluded island experience. It might be secluded, but it has one of the best bakeries in the area … quality aside, it simply has crazy cheap prices and overwhelmingly friendly service. Run from the front room of a small house you’d be hard pressed to even spend ¥1000 (approximately $10) and not feel completely full… Sagi is worth the visit just for the bakery! From Innoshima, it’s easy to catch a ferry from Shigei port on the west side of the island for a quick 20-minute ferry ride to Sagishima … bikes are totally okay on the ferry.
Maybe it’s the ‘realness’ I love. Quiet roads with some awesome downhills, tracks that hug the sea wall past long abandoned holiday parks with pirate names, and we can’t forget the resident guard pony … don’t ever think you’ll get a pat from this guy; he has serious ‘short horse syndrome’! Best to keep your fingers away. Yes, lesson learnt!
Sagishima’s population is said to be 71 per cent over 65, so don’t expect things to move fast on the island. Famous for the many citrus groves and asparagus plantations and in Spring, the 1,000 Sakura tree plantation bursts into full bloom, creating a drawcard for locals. But it is the quietness I love. The road that hugs the coast has mini cliffs that look just like Japanese watercolour paintings, pine trees jutting precariously from the edges, and blue waves lapping below.
There is no question that both Ehime and Hiroshima Prefecture hold in their hands one of the most iconic cycling routes in the world. But if you are prepared to venture off the roads less travelled I think you can experience that ‘real Japan’ I first tasted all those years ago. As I cycle the area at least twice each year, I often imagine Motoko and her family toiling away in their small plantations of negi or citrus, hunkering down in the evenings for a taste of that fabulous home-cooked sukiyaki Motoko made for our family when I was a child. You can almost smell it as you ride through the villages, but more so, you can feel that welcoming hand of friendship that has grown since that very ‘historical time’.
There are so many more places I could tell you about … but best I keep that a secret!
Shimanami Kaido Facts
START
Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture, or Imabari in Ehime Prefecture, although the usual start point is Onomichi as access is generally easier.
DISTANCE
Approximately 80km on the recommended route
VILLAGES ALONG THE WAY
Setoda on Ikuchijima – approximately 30km from Onomichi.
Tatara Cyclists Sanctuary – approximately 40km from Onomichi.
Kirosan Observatory Park – approximately 65km from Onomichi, or 20km from Imabari.
Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge – approximately 7km from Imabari.
Sunrise Itoyama – approximately 5km from Imabari.
BIKE RENTAL
There are rental bike stations at both Onomichi and Imabari that offer everything from sit-up cruisers to e-bikes and high-end carbon road bikes.
More information here.
Best places to stay
The Shimanami Kaido starts in either Onomichi (Hiroshima Prefecture) or Imabari (Ehime Prefecture).
Onomichi
U2 Cycle Hotel or Beacon Hotel are my picks; both are really cycle-friendly and allow your bikes inside your room. Think designer luxury, for more budget conscious options try Green Hill Hotel or Onomichi Daiichi Hotel.
Imabari
My pick is definitely JR Clement Hotel near the station, again cycle friendly with all the necessary facilities and a bike shop and rental station next door. It’s clean, refreshed and the staff are super helpful.
Setoda
Located halfway along the Shimanami is a great halfway base. The best pick there is Yubune, which comes at a hefty price, but the experience is well worth it. Check out the new Soil b&b rooms or Bonapool for more self-contained hostel accommodation.
